On this page I have written a short overview of the inside of my birdroom.

The right hand side of my birdroom has a bank of 6 double breeding cages each measuring 46"x18"x18". These cages can be split to make 12 single breeders measuring 23"x18"x18".
 

The left hand side has an internal flight measuring 92"x24"x36".
This is where I currently house my young Java's after being separated from their parents.

Below the internal flight are 3 single breeding cages each measuring 23"x18"x24", these are a bit of an odd size but they are quite spacious and are a comfortable size for a breeding pair of birds. These cages can be opened up to create a large triple breeder or I do sometimes use it as a stock cage.

You can also see in this picture, on the back wall, an electric heater. This is thermostatically controlled to keep the birdroom at a steady 60°F.
 

Cages

As mentioned above, I have a total of 6 double breeding cages that can be split into 12 single cages.

The double breeding cages measure 46"x18"x18". I believe these are a good sized cage for Java Sparrow's to breed in. I personally do not agree with breeding birds in small cages, I prefer to give the birds as much space as I possibly can, particularly when accommodating their fledglings. It is not unusual for Java Sparrows to have clutches of 8,9 or even occasionally 10 chicks, so in my opinion, the more room the better.

When I am not breeding any birds I open up these cages to house the separate sexes or use them as stock cages for housing young birds.

I think a major benefit of using double breeders is that it makes cleaning the cages a lot easier. By that I mean I am able to insert a dividing board into the middle of the cage whilst keeping the birds in the opposite side. This allows me to get into the cage to clean without subjecting the birds to unnecessary distress.

Below my flight cage are 3 single breeders measuring 23"x18"x24".

Although my birdroom has three windows to let in natural light and a 6ft fluorescent strip light, the single breeders never got enough light in them to encourage the birds to breed. I never had any problems with Bengalese in these cages but I had absolute zero success with Java Sparrows.

As you can see in this photo, these cages now have their own individual strip lights that has significantly enhanced the quality of light that is cast in them.

The lights in these cages also enhances the light quality in the double breeders opposite.


 

Hospital Cage

The Hospital Cage is one of the most important pieces of bird keeping equipment.

Placing a sick bird in a hospital cage and exposing it to warm temperature can, in many cases, help bring the bird back to good health.

These can be very expensive to purchase but, in my opinion, are worth every penny as once you have saved your first patient it has paid for itself.

Expect to pay around £120 for a good quality new hospital cage, or take a look in the sales and wants of the "Cage and Aviary" weekly newspaper to see if anyone is selling a used cage. EBay is another good source for picking up a bargain.

I purchased my hospital cage from Steve Nesbitt of SN Aviaries when he decided to give up his hobby of bird keeping. I have only used it once but it saved a Fawn Hen that had fallen ill.

Heating

My birdroom is heated by this electric radiator. It's a 1Kw heater that is thermostatically controlled. This unit is quite affordable at just £20, I purchased it from my local Currys store.

One point to make on this type of heater, they are not the most economical to run and you may notice a rise in your electricity bill, particularly through the cold winter months.

I have been quite fortunate with my heating bill as my birdroom is extremely well insulated. The heat this radiator gives out is retained for a considerable amount of time before the temperature drops low enough for the thermostat to switch the radiator on again.

I keep my birdroom at a steady 60°F. The Java Sparrow is a hardy bird and some people will argue that a heated birdroom in unnecessary. I personally have chosen to heat my birdroom as I believe you will obtain better breeding results "all year round". I do also house some Heck's Grassfinches so heating really is beneficial for these birds to breed.
 

Lighting

The main light source in my birdroom is a 6ft fluorescent strip light. I also have three windows on the wall opposite my main double breeders which let in plenty of light, particularly in the summer months.

You can also see in this picture a small 15w night light, this is timed to come on about 5 minutes before the main lighting goes off. It's a good idea to install a night light in your birdroom as it helps settle the birds and avoids them from getting injured if they get night fright.

Ventilation

Ventilation is another key factor in running a healthy birdroom.

The pictures below show the type of vent I have used in my shed.

If the winds get too high then I can close the vents partially or fully to reduce drafts.
 

Cleanliness

One of the most important factors of any type of animal husbandry is cleanliness.

I keep to a strict daily routine of sweeping the floor of my birdroom to avoid a build up of seeds and droppings that can attract vermin.

Mice can be catastrophic in your birdroom so the more you can do to avoid attracting them the better!

I do not keep my birdroom to laboratory standards but it is clean and well maintained.

The pictures below shows how I store my seed and other food stuff. Sealed containers are good for two reasons, 1- they keep things dry and fresh 2- make it almost impossible for vermin to get into them.