SJD Javas - A brief look at how I set my Java Sparrow's up for breeding.

The Java Sparrow is considered to be a fairly easy bird to breed.

I believe there are several factors that, if adhered to, will result in successful captive breeding.

1.The Most Obvious....You Must Have A True Pair .... A Cock And A Hen.
2. Both Birds MUST Be In Breeding Condition, With No Signs Of Moult
3.The Hen Must Be Of Breeding Age....9 To 12 Months Old.
4.Provision Of An Adequate Sized Nest Box And Nesting Materials.

As mentioned above, the cock and hen must both be in breeding condition. You will soon get to know when your birds are fit enough and ready to breed by their behavior and appearance. The cock and hen will appear to be more active and lively in the cage, the cock will be singing all day long and both birds will be ripping the paper on the cage floor....the cage will look like a bomb site!!! (for this reason I no longer use paper). You will also notice that the birds will have immaculate plumage. One of the striking characteristics of the Java Sparrow is its stunning appearance; the feathers will be tight and seamless when they are in breeding condition.

Occasionaly I will try to get natural pairings in the run up to breeding, I put a wired divider between the cages where my cocks and hens are housed separately. I soon learn which hen likes which cock as they tend to mirror each other in movement i.e. when one comes to the wire, the other will follow more or less instantly. When a pair are selected, the ring numbers are noted and the pairing logged in preparation for breeding.

Please read on as I have illustrated how I prepare for breeding.

When I obtained my very first pair of Java Sparrows, I searched the Internet for information on breeding these wonderful birds and it became clear that many breeders use Budgie nest boxes to accommodate their Java's when breeding. I took this information on-board and bred Java's successfully.

However, I found these boxes to be on the large side and I would say that half of the nest box was wasted. the Java's would often build their nests adjacent to the pop hole which meant that it was very difficult to access the nest to inspect and to remove the young for ringing. One positive factor of Budgie nest boxes is that they can accomadate large clutches comfortably....remember, it's quite common for Java's to have clutches of 7,8 or 9 chicks.

Several of my JSSUK friends have, for many years, been using nest boxes that are designed for Gouldian Finches. These are smaller and have an offset entrance and give the Java no option but to build their nests directly under the inspection lid which obviously makes nest inspection so much easier - I have created a page that illustrates how to make your own Gouldian typoe boxes Click Here to take you there.

The photo above shows a Gouldian type nest box which I am now using, my Java's have taken to these with no problems at all.
The first Gouldian type nest box I purchased was from Arlane Aviculture for £3.50. I then decided to make my own by making the box slightly larger and fitted a heavier lid. I've drawn up plans for this type of box which can be found on my"build a nest box" page.

As I make my own nest boxes (mainly from scrap off-cuts of plywood obtained from my place of work) very cheaply, I tend to throw away a nest box after a pair have used it to raise two or three clutches. If I'm honest, I can't really be bothered to scrape, clean and disinfect used nest boxes...I'd rather replace them with new ones.

The first step I take is to treat the new nest box with an anti Red Mite powder. This powder was recommended to me by a fellow JSSUK pal.

It's a product used mainly by poultry farmers and it's completely organic and, more importantly, very effective.

I give the nest box a good dose of this powder, close the lid, then blow into the nest box through the pop hole. This ensures the powder gets in all the corners and joints.

Once the dust has settled, I repeat the process again. There is probably no need to repeat the dosage but I like to make sure the whole box is treated.

In my first season of breeding Java Sparrow's I offered them three types of nesting material, Shredded Paper, Meadow Grass and Coconut Fibres. I discovered that shredded paper was favoured by many of my birds but I found it to be very messy. I am now offering only two options for my Java's, Meadow Grass and Coconut Fibres. Of these two materials, Meadow Grass seems to be favoured although they do use the Coconut Fibres in smaller quantities.

I grab a large handful of Meadow Grass from my stock and push it into the nesting area of the nest box.

I then make a fist and push it into the nest whilst rotating. This helps create a nest-like bowl.

I then take the Coconut Fibre's and shape them around the the nest.

Then, just like with the Meadow Grass, I make a fist to help form the fibres into the nest bowl.

The final step in preparing my nest box is to place some nesting material at the entrance to the nest box.

This will encourage the cock bird to venture into the nest box. Once he has, it won't be long before he starts building his nest.

Here's a typical example of a completed Java nest.

Now the nest box is ready, the only thing to do is to place some extra nesting material on the cage floor. I tend to pile it up in a corner of the cage and let the cock bird take it at his leisure.

I always ensure that there is nesting material available to the cock bird throughout his breeding season. It keeps him active but it also eliminates the risk of the cock bird taking the wood chipping's (Easibed) I use for my cage floors. Easibed is great for maintaining a fresh cage but the hard chipping's can damage precious eggs in the nest.

This photo abive shows a typical set up for breeding.

Also,(right) a close-up of Easibed as used on my cage floors>>

I have my cage ready, my nest box prepared, all that's left to do now is to introduce my selected pair of Java's. I introduce them into the cage together and then wait for nature to take it's course.

In many cases the cock bird will start to build the best within 24 hours of being paired up, I beleive this is always a good sign as it really does demonstrate his eagerness to breed.

Occasionally, cock bird's tend to start taking nesting material in to the nest within minutes of being introduced into the breeding cage...this is always a good sign.

Eggs usually appear between seven and fourteen days after being paired up.

If you are new to breeding birds then this photo of a fawn hen illustrates the tell tale sign that eggs are imminent. Look closely at this photo and you can see that the hen's rump is swollen. She will lay one egg a day and will produce around six or seven eggs in an average clutch ( I have experienced a clutch of thirteen eggs in the past). After she has laid her third or fourth egg she begins her eighteen days of incubation. The cock bird will also help out sitting the eggs to allow the hen to feed, bathe and excercise.
Note: I always have a bath on offer to a breeding pair as I believe that the mositure in the hen's feathers coupled with body temperature will create the right humidity required during incubation.

After eighteen days of incubation (not fourteen days as many books suggest) the eggs begin to hatch.

The young Java chicks are about the size of a 10p coin and are very delicate. My good friend Steve Nesbitt has created a page on his website "Just Javas" that illustrates the rapid growth of a young Java Sparrow. Click here to take you straight to Steve's page.

I tend to find that all eggs hatch within four days of the first egg hatching.

In many clutches I get one or two clear (or addled) eggs. I take these away after about a week after all fertile eggs have hatched. I beleive it keeps the hen eager to tend the nest during the first few days when the young Java chicks are at their most delicate stage.

After approximately 28 days from hatching the young Java's begin to leave the nest box for the first time.

I try not to hang around the birdroom when there are newly fledged birds in the cages athey tend to be very eratic and quite often crash into perches, cage fronts and cage walls. A human's prescence in the birdroom can be very intimidating to a fledgling so I spend as little time in the birdroom as I can until they become more confident with flying.

4 Young Java fledglings getting to grips with their new surroundings.

The timescale for a young Java to moult through to its adult plumage can vary dramaticaly. I believe this is down to the parental genetics. Some of my pairings produce young Java's that are fully moulted by 12 weeks, conversely, youngsters from other bloodlines that never really acheive their adult plumage until their first adult moult.

....when a Java Sparrow has acheived adult plumage, it can only be described as spectacular!

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